While flowers are a year-round obsession in Holland, the Dutch look forward to springtime as much as the tourists.

     From late March through May, Mother Nature, with a little help from the Dutch, paints the country with a broad stroke of color and the Dutch take every possible chance they can to revel in her achievement.

     Tulips, as synonymous with Holland as windmills, dominate the scene in late April and early May. From seed to sale, Holland offers several incomparable settings to enjoy the explosion of color. The following floral displays are must-sees.

Keukenhof Gardens

First on everyone's list of places to see flowers is Keukenhof, which bills itself as the world's largest flower garden.

     Each spring this 32-hectare masterpiece, situated just outside the town of Lisse, unveils over seven million tulips and other bulb flowers such as daffodils and hyacinths.

     Since 1949, local bulb growers have sculpted this former royal estate (food for the castle was grown here, hence the name keuken: kitchen, hof: garden) into a living work of art.

     Following the kilometres of paths, you immerse yourself in a kaleidoscope of blossoms while swans glide by on a quiet pond and a sweet aroma fills the air.

     If the seemingly endless patches of posies weren't enough, there is also a turn-of-the-century windmill, sculptures, fountains, indoor pavilions (the orchids are especially popular), demonstration area for home gardens, children's playground and petting zoo, and of course, you can buy your own bulbs here, too.

     Nearly 800,000 people enjoy Keukenhof during its brief season, but if you have some flexibility with your schedule, you can beat the crowds. According to Fiona, a seasonal employee, late afternoons are the best time to go, ("Come at 4 p.m. and there will be very few people.") followed by early mornings. Also, if you can, avoid April 25, the day of the bulb district's flower parade and the busiest day at Keukenhof.

     *Keukenhof's 1998 schedule runs from March 26 to May 24, with peak visitation coming during the tulip bloom. The hours are 8 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. with the last tickets sold at 6 o'clock.

The bulb fields

You'll pass them on the way to Keukenhof, but few people will regret half a day or more spent exploring the bulb fields, especially during the tulip bloom. Endless rows of an endless variety of hues stretch to the horizon.

     The greatest concentration of fields lie between Haarlem and Leiden, but the bulb district extends along the coast from Den Helder to The Hague.

     While you can view the fields from a bus or train, this is one place where you will want your own transportation, preferably a bike--the Netherlands has perhaps the world's best bike route system.

     Because flowers are almost everywhere, you can really wander just about anywhere, or if you wish, follow one of the recommended bulb routes. Maps are available at local tourist offices.

     *While Tulips put on the most impressive show, other flowers are in bloom too. Avoid the crowds by going during the week.

Bulb district flower parade

Hundreds of thousands of spectators gather along the 38-kilometre route between Noordwijk and Haarlem for this Bloemencorso which features elaborate floats rivaling those of Pasadena's Tournament of Roses Parade--only tulips replace roses. Other flower parades occur later in the year, but none compare to this annual exhibition.

     *This year's parade is April 25 and takes almost 12 hours to cover the route offering plenty of chance to see it. If you want to see the floats, but don't want to deal with the immense crowds, visit Haarlem the day after the parade where they'll be on display.

Aalsmeer flower auction

Nowhere does nature's beauty meet modern technology more impressively than at the Aalsmeer Flower Auction, a fitting monument to Holland's multi-billion dollar floriculture industry.

     This cooperative, owned by some 5,000 growers, is the largest and most important flower auction in the world handling a staggering 15 million cut flowers and plants a day - nearly four billion each year.

     Business takes place in a gargantuan complex covering 120 football fields, one of the largest buildings in the world, and is handled by 10,000 employees.

     The flowers, brought in the night before, are inspected and sorted, led through the auction rooms on automated conveyers, then packaged and loaded onto the buyer's trucks - and visitors can see the entire process from an elevated gallery.

     The gallery passes the four auction rooms for cut flowers, where nine auctions occur simultaneously. Bidding is fast, but not furious, since it is done electronically using the "Dutch auction" method. Large clock-like auction boards count down prices until the buyer stops the light at his desired price. The sale in completed and seconds later they move on to the next one. Without this unique and efficient system--each "clock" handles around 1500 transactions per hour--the sheer volume couldn't be managed.

     The system is so efficient that flowers you see being sold may be on store shelves in Canada that same day.

     *The visitors gallery is open weekdays year-round from 7:30 a.m. to 11 a.m. Business starts winding down around 9, so get there early.

Amsterdam's floating flower market

If you still want more, head to Amsterdam's Bloemenmarkt along the Singel Canal. This floating flower market, established in 1862, pales in comparison to Aalsmeer and Keukenhof, but it's a good place to pick up flowers to enliven you hotel room or bulbs to spice up your garden. Even if you're not buying, browsing along the flower-laden barges is a delight.

     *The market is open Monday through Saturday, year-round, from dusk to dawn.

IF YOU GO

The Netherlands is serviced by an exceptional public transit system. All-inclusive tickets, combining transportation and admission to Keukenhof are available in most area cities. Bus tours combining these sights can easily be arranged through hotels and travel agents in Holland.

     As spring marks the start of the busy tourist season, it's a good idea to make hotel reservations well in advance. An easy way to book a room is through the Netherlands Reservation Center (011-31-70-4195544). They are especially helpful with last-minute bookings.

     For additional information, contact the Netherlands Board of Tourism at 1-888-GO-HOLLAND, or see a travel agent.